
Is this a gimme? Of course I’d say…unless it was for any money… THEN you have to hole it out no matter how short it is…
Well…this one’s definitely NOT a gimme if we are playing for more than a dollar…
what do u think?

Is this a gimme? Of course I’d say…unless it was for any money… THEN you have to hole it out no matter how short it is…
Well…this one’s definitely NOT a gimme if we are playing for more than a dollar…
what do u think?
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Wow, THIS is too much information. Tiger Woods uses an interlocking grip like Jack Nicklaus, which the right pinky fits between the left pinky and the left 4th finger.
That’s how Tiger grips his clubs but that might not be the best way for you. The interlocking grip is great for those who feel comfortable with it. I started golf with an interlocking grip but have switched to the overlapping grip after a year or so. I still feel the overlapping grip fits me better but grip really is a personal thing. It’s not something you can write 5 pages about it. It’s something you just need to feel good and confident about it when you are hitting that golf ball for $10 a hole.
My suggestion, never ever look at an ezine article for golf stuff. Whoever wrote it doesn’t know jack shi* about golf and it’s just information you don’t need.
My advice, stick to a natural grip. But then again, I do let you choose what grip you will finally end up using. That’s the greatest freedom of all for golfers.
In honor of the British Open we would like to pay respect to the wind-cheating knockdown 5-iron. Take a 5-iron, choke up a little; open your stance about 20 degrees; play the ball toward your back foot; shift your weight forward; have your hands pressed forward; and take the club back waist high and come down aggressively on the ball with very little wrist action. This shot can be used from under trees, from out of divot, off hardpan, off loose sand, into the wind, or when loft simply isn’t necessary. The shot will produce a low roller that will keep you out of trouble.
The above is an excerpt from a master PGA professional. Although I have full due respect for his experience, it’s in my experience through teachers like Butch Harmon and players like Tiger Woods, that that’s NOT the right way to hit the knock-down shot. First, don’t choke. Second, don’t open your stance. And third, don’t play the ball off the back foot. Finally, fourth, do not shift your weight forward.
Choking will really choke you mentally and physically. Opening your stance will only confuse you. Playing the ball off the back foot and shifting your weight forward will only make you hit down on the ball, causing the ball to shoot up in the air.
So, just take your regular stance, play the ball in the middle, have weight balanced 50-50, and do NOT come aggressively down on the ball. Just swing nice and smooth 1/2 or 3/4.
That’s my 2 cents from the best coaches and players who have played this shot. If you don’t believe me, just go ask Tiger or Butch Harmon.

Here’s some good golf mumbo jumbo for those of you who are so into golf. Not that I am not, but this really takes the “grip and rip it” out of your game.
My advice? GO hit the ball first… All this you can think about after you start shooting near par… This article must have been written by a Physics Professor who couldn’t break 90…
The interaction between the club head and the ball will determine how far the ball will go and in which direction. There is a relationship between the speed of the club head and the initial velocity of the ball. This relationship depends on the coefficient of restitution of the ball, which varies between different types of balls. When the ball is struck by the club, it is deformed and flattened by the force of impact (balls with harder cores deform less than softer balls). In general, a harder ball will travel further than a softer ball because it deforms less and will efficiently transfer more energy from club to ball. During the impact between the ball and club head, kinetic energy is transferred and stored as the ball tries to regain its original shape. This coefficient of restitution is quite similar to the restoring force we discussed in class. To obtain maximum distance in the drive, a ball must be selected that maximizes restitution for the club speed. If the chosen ball is too soft for the club speed, too much energy will be spent deforming the ball and not enough energy will be stored in the ball. Similarly, if the ball is too hard for the club speed, then the ball will not deform enough, and again, will not transfer adequate energy. This is why it is important to choose a ball that matches the club speed. Here is a graph relating initial velocity of the ball with club speed:

Holy Cow, a crocodile easts a golfer! Well, just don’t play in areas where there are lots of crocodiles…
I can remember about 100 times where I almost died from a rattlesnake though… (that might BE more dangerous…)

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This is probably my favorite arsenal in my bag. You’ve probably seen Tiger on the practice tee showing off this shot too.
It’s a low-bullet slice shot. It’s great for hitting around the trees. The ball will take off very fast at about 90mph and then curve quickly at the end to the right.
Here’s how to hit it:
1. Get a 2 or 3 iron.
2. Open your stance about 30 degrees to the left. (The amount you open depends on how much curve you want on the ball. This must be acquired by practice and feel.)
3. Open your clubface about 30 degrees to the right. (same as above)
4. Put the ball in the center or back of your stance. (This depends on how low you want the ball to start. But don’t put the ball too far back, otherwise you will end up hitting down on the ball and put too much backspin which will make it go up.)
5. Rhythm is everything. Swing nice and easy about 3/4 or 1/2 swing. (A knock-down shot basically…)
P.S. You don’t have to hit down on the ball. Actually you want to sweep the ball like a Driver or a 3 Wood. The reason is again that you don’t want to hit down on the ball. That will cause extra backspin which will make your ball flight rise and beats the whole purpose of trying to hit a “low-bullet” slice shot.
You can practice this shot by trying to hit at driving range poles, yard markers, etc…etc…
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The 60 yard wedge is probably the hardest for regular joe golfers. This is the shot I practice the most. This IS the shot that Tiger practices most too. (and probably more than 50% of the tour players)
The difference between Tiger and rest of the tour player is that he can hit the 60 yard fade and the draw. He will be able to work the ball even though he’s not hitting it far.
Well here’s simple guideline for practicing your 60 yard wedge:
1. keep your golf grip super light for distance control
2. Rhythm, rhythm, and rhythm
3. Try to hit it in the middle or slightly inside of your sand wedge.
4. Try to hit the ball only, no divot for super control. Whenever you make a big divot, you are inviting dirt into your clubface grooves, which causes your ball to either:
- bounce too much after landing
- fly too long
5. It’s just a smaller version of your full swing. Master this shot and it will help all other parts of your ball striking.
6. If this helped you, leave a comment!
P.S. Youtube video might be hard to see, but that ball landed 5 feet from the pin.

Remember I said I wrote down 3 swing keys the other day when I hit the ball so great? Well above is the picture of it.

Well, I had an even better ball striking day so I had to add two more keys which are:
4. Longer Followthrough – meaning as long as your followthrough is longer than your backswing, you won’t de-accelerate and have any of those shanky problems.
5. Rhythm – meaning you need a smooth flowing swing. Think of Freddy Couple’s swing before you hit your shot.
I am ready to try out for the mini-tours again! My swing looks bad but I can hit it where I need to score.